2009回顧(10) Shoelust

今年帶給我最多啟發的Blog, 絕對是Jak & Jil! 攝影師Tommy Ton熱愛細節; 從配色到造型, 他的眼光與選擇比許多時尚專家還要敏銳。 在服裝愈來愈大同小異的年代, 鞋子角色反而更加重要, 運用得當則能為整個造型定調! 我衷情於這些"強勢"的設計細節, 卯丁、繩環、金屬與皮革, 這些元素雖非新聞, 卻在2009年被廣泛運用且淋漓盡致。

"人要向前, 第一個要動作的部位就是腳; 穿上好看合適的鞋, 就能往前踏向更精彩的旅程。" 我想, 就算是神保美姬, 也一定會愛上Jak & Jil吧!

年終

Andressa Fontana by Josh Ollins

自從五月開使用了Facebook之後, 這blog就開始長蜘蛛網了。 我喜歡即時快速的與好友分享新事物, 所以在fb直接丟links是最不囉唆的方法。

接近年尾, 有很多感想與心得需要紓發。 一整年經歷中我有找到心滿意足答案的時刻, 也有更多新問題在未來仍要持續探索。 決定將以十篇文章作為2009年的總整理以示對自己負責(心虛)。 2010年I Is Another要搬到新家s.zine, 更多新鮮事將會在s.zine與各位分享, 敬請期待!!

Burton's Wonderland

Colleen Atwood 是Alice in Wonderland的劇服設計師, 她的作品包括Tim Burton 的 Edward Scissorhands 與Sleepy Hollow; 還得過兩座奧斯卡最佳劇服設計獎(Chicago和Memoirs of a Geisha)!!

Tim Burton在一段訪談中說到Johnny Depp創造Mad Hatter角色前, 花了許多心思在造型選擇上"He's the type of actor that a lot of the character comes from the look of the outfit," he said. "It helps him really create and get into who the character is." 完整訪談在此~~

Vivienne Westwood@Janathan Ross 07/12/09

從不看電視的Vivienne Westwood為何自己要求上Jahathan Ross的電視訪談呢? 原來是為了讓更多的人了解全球暖化的議題。 近年來看到Westwood從聲援人權運動、抨擊反恐法、發表反對Propaganda的宣言等等，高齡並沒有影響她的熱情與行動力。 在這最新的訪談之中，她呼籲人們減少無謂的消費。 從服裝到文化與生活，應要重新審思、建立新的價值觀。她說：

Buy less, and choose well. Don't buy things for the sake of it, 'cause everyone will just look alike.

Human race, is it going to survive? I mean, we should get passionate about that.

Understand the world you are living. But you need to go deep, if your don't have depth, you don't understand the world you are living.

當然，她看起來美極了!!

Men's Fashion Week: Ash Stymest

好久沒更新，先來些風花雪月的好了，緩和一下我最近思考過度的嚴肅腦袋!!

2010米蘭與巴黎的男裝週剛剛落幕，感謝有TFS，幕後記錄比前台有趣的多。花招百出的耍寶冠軍就是Ash, 台上台下判若兩人....看出他都在忙些什麼了吧。

Rock 'n' Roll Circus 1968

Pleased to meet you
Hope you guessed my name
But whats confusing you
Is just the nature of my game

Just as every cop is a criminal
And all the sinners saints
As heads is tails
Just call me Lucifer
'Cause I'm in need of some restraint

So if you meet me
Have some courtesy
Have some sympathy, and some taste
Use all your well-learned politesse
Or I'll lay your soul to waste

Your Name Is My Favorite Scent

好好調查了一下最近讓我著迷成癮的香水成份。

牡丹/peony、荔枝/lychee、小蒼蘭 /freesia、玫瑰/rose、玉蘭花/magnolia、玲蘭/lily of the valley、琥珀 /amber 、雪松/cedarwood。 雖然瓶身上刻印的命名源自希臘神話，可瓶內淡金色的花果調合卻流溢著東方氣息~~

該品牌當初拍攝的形象廣告有夠通俗(那比較像是美髮產品廣告)，讓我心生莫名抗拒。 而現在，沒它不行呵!!

Blonde Ambition

Debbi Harry & Taylor Momsen

有關於70年代, 美國少女搖滾團體The Runaways傳記電影正式開拍中, Kristen Stewart飾演Joan Jett, 而Dakota Fanning扮演Cherie Currie。 其實, 我幻想的Cherie人選是Taylor Momsen。這16歲的GG小妞愈來愈有鮮明的個人特色, 或許她新組的Pretty Reckless尚嫌生澀, 但可千萬別小看獅子座的女生, 她們天生有著渴望突變的野心。 Just wait and see....

The Gossip

Beth Ditto在去年為SHOWstudio拍攝的Feminist短片, 讓我幾乎覺得, 沒人比她更適合那件McQueen的羽毛彩衣。 今年她更是出現在各大服裝秀與時尚雜誌封面。 造型與身型臉蛋沒有絕對的利弊關係, 重點是敢於嘗試與表態。 也難怪各家設計師搶著為她製裝, 小心點呵鉛筆人～ Here comes Heavy Cross!!

Woody on Bergman

Part I & Part II

To me, philosophical question, the existential questions, the religious questions were more interesting to me personally. I've been influenced specifically by him. Just as one writer influenced by another writer.

He explores these questions and dramatizes some the best thinkers on the subject and does it with enormous theatricality.

You don't come away depressed, you come away with exhilarated feelings, because you're in the presence of great art.

The way it was shot.... was hypnotic. The choice of color, and the choice to do the subject matter poetically. He is really a poet.

Round and Around

看完Serge Gainsbourg在1967年為Anna Karina創作的電視音樂劇《ANNA》後，讓我更加朝思暮想。 四月在巴黎沒買Sonia Rykiel的圓型珍珠鑲嵌黑框墨鏡實為重大失策!!

Hitchcock Interview 1964 (BBC)

Part I

Part II

Because after all they were frighten as children.......It's all based on Red Riding Hood. Nothing has changed since Red Riding Hood. So what they're frighten of today are exactly the same thing they're frighten of yesterday.

The assembly of pieces of film to create fright, is the central part of my job. Just as much as a painter putting certain colors together to create evil on canvas.

I believe in putting the horror in the mind of the audience, and not necessarily on the screen.

Q: What is a good cry as opposed to bad cry.
A: I think it's the satisfaction of temporary pain.

What is reality? I don't think many people want reality. I think it must look real. But it never must be. Because reality is none of us can really stand at anytime.